A photo essay of Tholing & Tsaparang, Western Tibet, the Kingdom of Guge

revision18 Mar 2001
http://www.greenkiwi.co.nz/footprints/frames/gu_art_print.htm
Print.Version

I have given some thought to the proposition that it might not be in the best interests of Gu-ge art to publish these images on the web. Such argument suggests that any resultant popularity might lead to an influx of visitors whose presence will contribute to a degradation of spirituality; the loss of the region’s sense of isolation; and, in the case of art works to increasing possibilities for theft. There is some validity in all these propositions.
On the other hand, Tholing and Tsaparang are already described in regional guidebooks; the very real difficulties both physical and financial, of travelling to Gu-ge will ensure that visitors are few; increased interest in the Gu-ge art may allow extra funds and effort to be directed towards preservation; and extra visitors may influence the authorities to improve their approach to security.
Finally, publication gives opportunity for a wider audience to sense how these artists of the Himalaya helped enhance the human spirit. In my view the arguments in favour of publication are more potent.

I offer these photographs in homage and respect to the artists of Gu-ge,
those who supported them,
and the philosophy which gave them origin.

**Seated siddha**
		seated siddha
		detail right wrist
		detail right hand
		detail garments
		detail left foot
		detail knee drapes
		detail left ankle

**Chain-mail warrior**
		chain-mail warrior
		detail horses head
		detail warrior's head
		chain-mail links found in Tsaparang cave

**un-grouped images 1**
		jewel in the lotus
		temple lion
		clouds
		people on house ladder
		'flower'
		black hand
		apsara with staff

**un-grouped images 2**
		monk with incense burner
		Chenrezig
		altar support figure
		temple lion
		hand with wand
		detail knee drapes
		apsara

**Scenes around Tholing**
		hills north of Tholing
		approaching Tholing
		distant view of the Sutlej gorges and the snows of the Indian Himalaya beyond
		Tholing from the north
		Tholing main street
		Rinchen Zangpo chorten
		Tholing river path looking east
		Tholing river path looking west
		Pala style chorten

**Scenes around Tsaparang**
		approach to Tsaparang
		the Tsaparang citadel
		stairway to the Tsaparang citadel
		Tsaparang citadel looking north
		Tsaparang looking down
		repairing statue hand (Khorchar gompa)

The images were collected during a two day visit to Tholing and Tsaparang by John and Diane McKinnon in September 1997. At that time permission to photograph the interiors fluctuated, seemingly dependent upon whim and avarice of the temple guardians.
We had no special equipment and limited time. The quality of the final results are more a reflection of the skill of those original artists than that of the photographer.
Because our note-taking was scanty I am not able to reliably attribute images to a particular temple other than to say that they were all taken in Tholing or Tsaparang.
Where images are details from an original photograph they are grouped together. Otherwise, they are in no particular order.

Footprints Tours, Ltd. Box 7027, Nelson, New Zealand	email: john@greenkiwi.co.nz web: www.greenkiwi.co.nz/footprints/
Phone: 64 3 548 0145	Fax: 64 3 546 6179

**Gompa window**
		monks at window
		detail monks at window