an.... Invitation to Kyoto's gardens
PRINT VERSION revision29jan07
We run this tour according to demand.
At present (Jan07) we do not have any Japan tour scheduled.
Please make contact if you are interested.
eas of raked sand and azalea mountains. Rocks representing the world, and ponds that stretch from one universe to the other. Japan’s gardens are paradoxical; tiny and opulent, refined and huge, simple and complex, easy to see yet hard to grasp. The degree of complexity fascinated me while I lived in Japan. Gardens as a metaphor for the community within which I lived, and as entities themselves, were a constant revelation. Artistic expression through the use of topiary, rock work and a knowledge of how people move and interact with their environment was something totally new and fascinating to me. In springtime all the elements combine to make Japan’s gardens fresh and alive. Cherry blossoms, azalea blooms, irises, baby bamboo shoots and the fresh green foliage of Japan’s deciduous trees breaking out of winter’s austere boughs make for one of the significant changes of the year.
To be able to share my interest and enthusiasm for Japan and it’s gardens with others, is really enjoyable, especially in the spring season.
The General Plan
s to visit the famous, and some of the less famous gardens of Kyoto, Nara and Osaka during spring. We have run this tour on successive years but from 1999 will offer it only on special request. We shall see and learn about the various garden styles of these ancient cities. Osaka's, Kansai International airport (arguably the most architecturally spectacular of the world's new airports), is our gateway to Japan. Nara (home to Japan's largest bronze statue),
Kyoto (Japan’s cultural capital) and Mount Koya (famous for it's cedar temple-lodges) also feature on our itinerary.
A brief history of Japanese Gardens
apan was described as having always been fashionable by Fosco Maraini and this observation is still true today.
From the Shinden gardens of the Heian period ( 894 - 1185) with their Fishing and Spring pavilions and idealised versions of nature, to the ultra modern concrete water sculptures of Ando Tadao, Japan’s gardens have and will always be slightly outside the main stream. By visiting the ‘Paradise’ gardens of the late Heian period like Byodo-in in Kyoto, and the more classically recognised Karesansui (or landscape without plants or water) style typified by Ryoan-ji, you will get a feel for what it was that helped create the Japanese garden aesthetic. The Silver and Gold pavilions, so often depicted in Japanese calendars, are even more thought provoking seen in context. Originally parts of large villa complexes, the former was a synthesis of the Shinden, Paradise and Zen garden styles; the latter a more private place influenced by the rising importance of the tea ceremony and flower arranging.
Kobori Enshu, perhaps the best known garden designer outside Japan. He worked in the Edo period which followed construction of the Silver and Gold pavilions. The Hojo garden at Nanzen-ji is a Sung-painting-inspired dry landscape by Enshu. The same temple’s Konchi-in, a contemporary construction of the Hojo’s, exhibits what became Enshu’s trade mark, topiary. Konchi-in has clipped hedge mountains rather than what had previously been the norm, large and expensive rocks.
As Japan’s political strength moved from the priests to the warriors, so to did the style of garden construction change. Instead of being a place of contemplation, the garden became a show piece. Sambo-in is a fine example, constructed in 1598 with 800 rocks. One of these rocks was the equivalent of sufficient rice to feed one thousand men for a year.
However, it was not the flagrant display of wealth through gardens which endured into the following centuries, but another style of garden which was developing at the same time. This style had seen a slow progression from the early fifteenth century.
It was the garden associated with tea and it’s preparation. The tea ceremony and it’s garden stressed simplicity, not extravagance and these qualities have endured. It’s central tenant is mitate or re-seeing, an awareness of beauty in unexpected forms. Gardens were constructed with these ideas in mind, to help the person passing through them move from the formal world into the informal sanctuary of the tea ceremony.
At that time, the Roji (tea-style) garden associated with the tea ceremony was a break-through. Zen gardens had become static, things viewed from fixed points with specific meanings to be discovered by the viewer. Tea-style gardens are modest and subtle, but not unfathomable.
These new principals, from the Roji gardens, were combined with the earlier extravagant dry landscape style by Kobori Enshu and his patrons to create the stroll gardens that accompany Sukiya-shoin style villas. Shugaku-in’s garden is the perfect example of this.
I’d like to take you to these places. You’ll see the details, confirming or challenging your ideas. Masterpieces of form and function, the Gardens of Japan have something for everyone. Come for a remarkable experience!
Where do we travel?
rom Kansai international airport we’ll take a train into the very heart of Japan’s second biggest city, Osaka. Long renowned for it’s inhabitant’s love of food and making money Osaka is a vibrant and exciting city; truly dazzling in the evening.
The Allied destruction of this city did nothing for it. The flat concrete expanse that is the physical city is not particularly appealing. But a city is much more than the structures it inhabits. Osaka is one of those cities which throb to a human pulse, not that of the motor vehicle or of history. A city of business people, utilitarian constructions abound, but so do vibrant people.
Often characterised in plays or on TV as money grubbing or loud Osakan’s stand tall in what you’d expect to be a flat field. As home to some of last century’s greatest business conglomerates, the Zaibatsu, and some of Japan’s famous mafia families, the Yakuza, you can expect to see some ostentatious wealth splashed about. This is the complete antithesis of Tokyo’s displays of wealth through knowledge of quality. Osakan’s like to flaunt what they have and flaunt they do. Urban Magic !
In Osaka we savour something of this modern flavour as well as the ancient. We visit Heimeiji Castle, the only extant one of it’s kind in Japan. This huge wooden building was designed to look as though it’s eaves were the wings of a bird about to take flight.
ara; thousand year old statues, massive old buildings, and Chinese influenced gardens of the Heian period. Design in the Heian period was intended to give the impression of a lush and languid natural paradise. The builders of these gardens abhorred raw nature and therefore placed each piece of moss and pebble individually, attempting to create an idealised version of nature.
Though capital for only seventy four years (710 to 784), Nara saw the move to form a politically unified Japan and the beginnings of state sponsored Buddhism. In 743 the emperor Shomu constructed a giant bronze Buddha. A huge temple was built to house the statue and when opened it attracted visitors and presents from all over the Buddhist world. Cut glass bowls from Persia are still held in the temple’s treasure house. Cut glass was a treasure not seen in Japan for another eight hundred years with the arrival of the Portuguese. Now a quiet rural city where deer wander the streets, Nara's quiet contrasts with Osaka’s hurly-burly.
yoto is a short train ride from Nara. Kyoto, old and new, provides us with a lot to explore; quaint thatched villages, Emperor’s homes, gardens and it’s intense history make this city one of the most enchanting in modern Japan. One or two of our days will be schedule free for those who wish to visit places of their own interest such as Tokyo or Hiroshima.
The heart of Japanese culture to this day, this is a city that makes ‘living cultural treasures’ appear not at all out of place. Giant ferro-concrete structures next to two hundred year old homes, the contrasts are fascinating.
Like many of Asia's modern cities, leaving the road to enter a garden or temple precinct drops you into a land that time forgot. Exposed wiring and telephones giving only the faintest of clues that the twentieth century awaits outside.
Still fiercely traditional in many things Kyoto residents maintain their historical reserve. Often characterised as being ‘holier-than-thou’, and possessing an overly formal way of speech, Kyoto-ites have the poise one would expect of people long at their country’s political and cultural heart.
ount Koya; the home of Japan’s Tibetan-like esoteric Buddhism, this temple provides an idea of what Japan must have been like in the past; mist-covered and wooded; it’s pace of life dictated by the seasons and festivals associated with them. A magical spot. Koya is your chance to experience old Japan.
What else? Temples and Tofu, Egrets and Electronics
ating tofu from a lacquered bowl in a temple where one of the first men to bring Buddhism to Japan still sits in meditation; towering cedar trees; quiet streams stocked with colourful carp; slurping your spaghetti so the cook knows you like the dish; watching bitter green tea being prepared as it has been for five hundred years; seeing thirty thousand people shopping in one street; finding electronic gadgets two years before they arrive at home; and discovering that most everyone hopes their children will get a good job and do the best they can do. All these things, without even mentioning the gardens, crowd to inundate the senses on your trip to Japan.
And I haven’t talked about the food! Unlike the spice of other Asian nations Japanese cuisine ranges from the sublime (Kai-seki) to the ridiculous (baby octopus). However, it is not all rice and raw fish! The Japanese eat often and well and Osaka is especially famous for it’s food.
Japan is very safe this is one country that you don’t have to worry about being mugged. Businessmen after a hard night’s drinking are able to sleep unmolested on the street, until trains start in the morning. Hopefully we’ll neither be incapacitated nor miss our trains, those cardboard boxes aren’t very warm!
What is a Ryokan?
iterally translated Ryo means journey or trip, and Kan means building. Thus Ryokan are places where travellers stay. Historically only people from certain areas, or having particular professions would stay at particular Ryokan.
Ryokan are charming places to stay. They are much more personalised than hotels; in many ways rather similar to ‘Bed and Breakfast’ establishments. Most are run by families, who carry on the family business in a style which has changed little over many years.
As you would expect, with such a historical perspective, both guests and proprietors have expectations to fulfill. Guests must try not to offend their hosts and proprietors should ensure that their guests do not feel ill at ease; so there are minor rituals which ease the transition from ‘arriving traveller’ to ‘honoured guest’.
I shall initiate you into these formalities which add considerably to the ‘Japanese experience’ and the charm of life in a ryokan. Because of their history, ryokan are usually in older parts of town where the traditions of daily life are less pressured. Their interior gardens and the decor of the rooms are all designed to create a sense of peace away from the bustle of street and business. In short, ryokan are fun!
What do we eat?
aving quite recently been a farming economy, and to this day very parochial, local cuisine is especially prized. In the Osaka region there are a number of local delicacies which we’ll be able to try; Osaka style Okonomiyaki (cabbage pancake, with your favourite topping, cooked on a hot plate); Ikayaki (sliced squid crepe); and Tako yaki (sliced octopus fried into balls with a thick dark sauce).
If you prefer something less exotic, McDonalds is everywhere, one of best value for money meals in Japan. Most of the other north American franchises are also represented, with a Japanese flavour, in Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara. If fact, all types of food are available for a price.
What about shopping?
here will be time in both Osaka and Kyoto to shop. Even a day trip to the Ginza in Tokyo is possible for the die-hard boutique goer. Cameras’ and consumer electronics’ are available at duty free prices, but don’t expect bargains, just things that may never see at home.
Handicrafts from all over Japan and the world are available. Quality being highly prized, these tend to be expensive. Japanese hand made fabrics and pottery are particularly oddly priced. Some have huge price tags while other similar pieces go for a song. Often the only difference is the maker, or name associated with the piece. This variability is sometimes a boon and at other times a curse, as I follow the "if you like it buy it because you’ll never see it again" maxim.
If there is sufficient interest we’ll include a trip to a Saturday flea market at one of Kyoto’s many temples, great fun and often where you’ll see that special something to take back home.
How physically challenging is this tour?
apan does have an easy to use and extensive public transport system. We shall use this for much of our travel. This will require some walking between connecting terminals, and between stations and our accomodation. Obviously, any holiday is more enjoyable if you are physically fit. The distances between station platforms and the size of temple complexes require that you should be a reasonable walker.
It is essential to have a suitcase on wheels or a luggage trolley. A day-pack and wheeled-suitcase is a good combination to conveniently cope with all the circumstances we shall encounter.
We shall stay in ryokan (traditional local inns), sleeping on futons, mats of foam or wool, placed on the floor. These are more austere than a feather bed but comfortable. However, you do have to be sufficiently fit to get on and off the floor.
If you have concerns about fitness or mobility, I am happy to discuss these issues.
How many people will go?
he minimum client number for this trip is five.
The pictured ladies will not be accompanying us, but we may get to see their descendents in the streets of Kyoto. If there are fewer clients then the trip may still be able to go ahead for an increased fee, but I’ll consult with all interested parties at that time if this occurs.
here are a thousand different reasons. Here’s one that appeals
Our greatest disappointments are nearly always for what we haven’t done - not for what we have done. And don’t let the feeble excuse of work keep you back; remember the Haitian proverb: If work is such a good thing, how come the rich haven’t grabbed it all for themselves ?
John Hatt (1948 - )
JAPAN Itineraries and prices
Gardens of Japan, Land only group
hose who wish to travel elsewhere in Asia or travel on to Europe may prefer this option.
Gardens of Japan Land Only ex Osaka Approximate dates
14 day trip 2 nights in Osaka 2 nights in Nara 7 nights in Kyoto 2 nights at Mt. Koya all breakfasts and lunches land transportation as detailed US$ 3300 approximate price for 2003 depends on exchange rate
Please note: These prices are not final, I reserve the right to make changes should major movements occur in currency or airfares.N.B. If you choose the land-only option please organise your air travel early. Flights to and from Asia are very heavily booked. I am happy to help with suggestions and flight bookings if you wish.
What shall we tell you? Tales, marvellous tales, Of ships and stars and isles where good men rest, Where nevermore the rose of sunset pales, And winds and shadows fall toward the west.
The Golden Journey to Samarkand
James Elroy Flecker
Gardens of Japan, Main group
Gardens of Japan Main Group ex NZ Approximate dates
16 day trip 2 nights in Osaka 2 nights in Nara 7 nights in Kyoto 2 nights at Mt. Koya all breakfasts and lunches land transportation as detailed NZ$ 7,800 approximate price for 2003 ex Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch
Please note: These prices are not final, I reserve the right to make changes should major movements occur in currency or airfares.
Gardens of Japan
What do you get?
For all groups
A personal introduction to some new places and interesting people with me! · Return economy airfare from Christchurch, Wellington or Auckland to Japan · Twin-share accommodation in all cities · Breakfasts everyday · All Lunches · Airport transfers and departure tax in Osaka · Garden admission fees · Transportation to and from daily itinerary destinations · Two dinners at our mount Koya accommodation.
Gardens of Japan
What you don't get
NZ departure tax · dinner, unless mentioned · personal insurance and medical expenses · excess baggage charges · items of a personal nature and items not explicitly mentioned by Footprints.
Is it worth it?
his is a personal introduction to Japan and it’s gardens. To my knowledge a tour focusing on the Gardens of Japan, is not offered by any other company from New Zealand and specialised tours to Japan are rarely offered internationally. There are definitely no tours from New Zealand accompanied by someone like my-self, a Japanese speaking five year resident of the Osaka-Kyoto area. Please compare this trip with other garden based tours to more common destinations. Footprints provide quality and personalised service. Nothing less.
Japan is often rushed, but it does not have to be. Ambling and experiencing one place thoroughly pays bigger dividends than visiting everything and just seeing it. On this trip you’ll have time to visit some very special places I know well. You will treasure your Japan experience for a lifetime......if this one day in the lifetime of a hundred years is lost,
will you ever get your hands on it again?
Eihei Dogen (1200-1253)
If you would like more information about a specific trip please email your wishes and we shall respond.
If the timing of this trip does not suit, and you would like us to arrange a tour for your own independent group check out what we offer.
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Programming & design by Green Kiwi Ltd
Last updated: 20 Feb,2002
Footprints Tours, Ltd.
Box 7027, Nelson, New Zealand
Phone: 64 3 548 0145 Fax: 64 3 546 6179
Gardens of Japan 2003 How to Book?
A deposit of NZ$300 or US$150 per person [personal cheques ok] and a completed booking form should be sent to me. Confirmation of your booking will be sent immediately. Balance becomes due 60 days before departure of your tour.CANCELLATIONS & REFUND
If cancellation takes place more than 60 days before departure 50% of your deposit will be returned. If cancellation takes place less than 60 days prior to departure refunds will be made on the assessment of costs incurred.CANCELLATION or AMENDMENTS BY ME
In the unlikely event of me being unable to lead the trip (if advertised), or a major amendment being necessary I shall make alternative arrangements and consult with group members. If these changes are unacceptable to group members they may withdraw with full refund.POSTPONEMENT or DELAYS
Trips are planned to avoid flight problems. However, I shall not be responsible for any postponement or delay caused by bad weather, political instability or airline rescheduling. I shall make every effort to minimise the inconvenience but will not be responsible for the extra expenses incurred.INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL DOCUMENTS
You need a valid passport.
A visa for Japan is not necessary for holders of New Zealand, Australian, United Kingdom or United States passports. All travellers to India need visas. I shall send the appropriate application forms.
Everyone must send me 4 passport photos with their deposit.HEALTH & INSURANCE
All tours require a good level of fitness. Although this is not a walking trek some Japanese monuments and gardens are extensive with numerous steps and walks. I encourage everyone to make an effort to be as fit as possible before starting the tour.
Personal travel insurance is not included in the tour cost. You are strongly advised not to travel in Asia without taking out a policy. I recommend the House of Travel (American International Group) policy. 'Plan B' is recommended for these parts of Asia. I have specifically checked, and this policy covers the cost of emergency helicopter evacuation. I will enclose a brochure on this policy after booking.Copyright © No part of this document may be used or reproduced without the express permission of Footprints Tours Ltd.
GARDENS of JAPAN BOOKING FORMTo join the trip please fill out the form and send it to me with a deposit of NZ$300 [or US$150 personal cheques ok ]
per person. Please complete a separate form for each person. Please send four passport photos for various permits.
I shall send you confirmation, a receipt and comprehensive notes regarding preparation for the trip, passport requirements, visas, clothing etc.
Full name:..................................................................Address :................................................................... Phone: Home:
....................................................................... Bus :
I wish to join the: Main group yes/no Land only group yes/no [join andleave in Osaka]NZ Travel: Please consider travelling to Auckland the day before the Main Group departs. Bad weather can cause flight cancellations. If you miss the group you will have to catch up as best you can. If you want me to suggest or organise accommodation in Auckland please let me know.TO AUCKLAND FROM......................(city). Preferred time of day:..............FROM AUCKLAND TO.............................(city) On return I shall book the appropriate flight to get you home as soon as possible.
INTERNATIONAL RETURN TRAVEL: I wish to return via another route yes/no
I wish to stop longer in Japan yes/no
please detail...............................................Please remember to enclose your 4 passport photos
and deposit of NZ$300 or US$150 [pesonal cheques ok]
Footprints Tours, Ltd.
Box 7027, Nelson, New Zealand
Phone: 64 3 548 0145 Fax: 64 3 546 6179