NEPAL


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an ancient monk, Tashi Gelling cave temple, Mustang, Nepal

monk, Tashi Gelling G., Mustang
Tashi Geling cave temple, Mustang, Nepal

For at least two thousand years people people have lived in caves in the upper Kali Gandaki valley. It was a natural response to a harsh climate with little building timber for conventional house construction.
When Buddhism arrived in Mustang around 770 CE it would seem natural enough, for temples to be built into the cliffside; and for some to be decorated with paintings.
One such is the famous Gompa (temple) of Luri first described in 1994. Just nearby and 'discovered' in 1998 is the cave gompa of Tashi Gelling from which this photo comes.
There is no written record of Luri or Tashi Gelling but it is thought from their style of painting that they date from the late 13th - early 14th century. At that time there was a free interchange of artists between Nepal, Tibet and, to some extent Central Asia. The Luri and Tashi Gelling paintings demonstrate a charming clarity and freshness which preceeded the development of the more complex compositions which characterise the Tibetan style.
The scholars who first described Tashi Gelling had investigated the cave just two weeks prior to our group 1998. It is a temple which receives few visits. There are several reasons: not least being the considerable difficulty of getting up the steep scree slopes to the cave entrance; in addition, Mustang is a remote region with extra charges imposed by the the Nepalese government in an endeavour to protect the region's culture; few trekkers go to Mustang, and even fewer to the eastern side valleys where these temples lie.

Next month:   beyond the 'Plain of Aspiration'

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On our trek to Mustang, in July 2001 we make a feature of visiting Luri, and for those who can manage the slope, Tashi Gelling!

the 'Highlands of Mustang' July 2001.

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revision 18 Mar 2001
http://www.greenkiwi.co.nz/footprints/photo/ph0009.htm

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